The 1970s Guinevere dress

I woke on the weekend with an itch for a little more creativity than the normal sew (actually a fair few weekends ago now!). Rather than reaching for a pattern I went straight for my bodice block. Driven by the sleeve craze that seems to be sweeping 2017 I sketched out some ideas. After several designs and lots of dizzying around in my parent's living room draped in African wax I decided on this:

I often draw out my print placement ahead of cutting my fabric 

Not entirely practical, naturally, but I was loving the middle ages/1970s vibe.  After all that dizzying I chose to work with an 'African wax' print with a little more drape than usual. Whilst in London at Dalston market I accidentally purchased some 'fake' African wax print (I suspect it is Chinese in origin) but its polyester content does provide drape, perfect for a maxi length and those dramatic sleeves!

I grabbed the sleeve from my block and got chopping. I wanted to move the under arm seam to sit down the centre front of the sleeve stopping at the elbow for dramatic drape. With a little trial and error this is how I did it:

After this, I drafted a simple maxi half circle skirt and added a button band at the back of the bodice instead of a zip. Like I said, I was enjoying the medieval vibes. I decided that rather than making a dress I'd make separates to maximise the wear I'd get from the skirt - the sleeves are rather ridiculous after all!

The cutting and sewing were relatively straight forward. Mostly due to the fact I was decisive with my print placement. I finished all seams by turning over and stitching, I finished the neckline with self-made bias binding, then covered my own buttons, and I stitched the bodice hem by hand.

As soon as I finished her, I indulged in the urge to grab a big floppy hat, platforms and round sunglasses (some of you may have seen the result on Instagram stories!). I'm all ready for our 1970s house warming party (if we ever move into our new house!). For now, I took to the woods in my new dress...

then a field...

...then a stone circle!

Who needs a house when you can frolick dressed as a 1970s princess... I'll keep telling myself that.

This was an extremely timely make for an entry into the Sleeve fest 2017 competition run by @dream.cut.sew and @valentine.and.stitch over on Instagram. Do you have any grand sleeve plans? You've got until the 31/08 to enter!

Wishing you all a happy, sewing filled week.

Love,

Vic x

Who needs a christmas tree when you have embroidered tulle?!

While browsing the rag market at SewBrum in September, I spotted a gorgeous length of embroidered tulle at one of the stalls. It was a pale gold/green tulle with a gold Paisley design and little pink and gold flowers. I held it up to the light, and as it shimmered, I tried to stop myself imagining myself gleefully twirling in it. With all the restraint I could muster, I pulled myself away. We live in a small one bed flat in Bath, and 80% of 'our space' is piled high with silks, brocades and bold African wax. My goal for the SewBrum fabric trip was to make slightly more conservative choices for an attempt at a more everyday wardrobe... Pah! Who am I kidding?!!! I'm like moth to the flame - I CANNOT STOP MYSELF! I need to come to terms with the fact that I will ALWAYS be A LOT overdressed. As for the space issue, we'll just have to move! After a debriefing with Pecia and Becca I made my way back to the stall and joyfully handed over my £12 for the 2m length! It was mine!

Along with this little lot... such a practical bounty! I'm like a magpie.

It sat in my stash for over a month before the perfect occasion presented itself... the Fold line Christmas party. If you can't be overdressed with a group of sewists then when can you?! I found this perfect gold lining fabric in my stash. It was a gift from my chap's Dad, and the embroidery looked beautiful over it.

After a quick browse through my pattern stash, I selected the Elisalex dress. This was the first dress I ever made, so I am very fond of it. I imagined the princess seams with a box pleat skirt - beautiful! I fancied sewing a pattern I knew like the back of my hand but with the slight challenge of underlining in the gold lining I was in for a blissful day! I drafted a quick short sleeve to fit the armhole instead of using the original pattern sleeve (I cannot wait to get my hands on the updated version of this pattern - the By Hand London girls have reworked their magic with this beauty!). I wanted the sleeve and the bottom section of the skirt to be sheer over the skin, so I decided I would just underline the bodice and use a free lining in the skirt to cover my modesty! There was only a metre of the gold lining so I had to be very strategic with the pattern pieces. I squeezed out a half circle skirt as a lining that was perhaps a little shorter than I would have liked (it is a good job I'm a midget!).

I played around with the pattern placement to get the paisley repeat running perfectly down the middle and to avoid any awkward positioning! I cut the underling first then used it to cut the tulle.

Even my slippers are ridiculous!

 I basted the main pieces and the underlining together before constructing the bodice as usual.

This was one of my most enjoyable sewing sessions to date. Seriously, I was squealing with glee!

I lined the bodice with a piece of beautiful blush silk gifted to me by the wonderful Julia.

I tend to buy 22" zips in bulk in several colours from Weaver Dee. I then cut them to size. After a zip disaster last New Year's Eve (I pulled the zipper off the bottom of the zip after I'd sewn it in hours before the party - cue Dave to the rescue! Does your significant other have to run to the rescue when things go horribly wrong too?) I always cover the bottom of the zip immediately after I shorten it. Functional and beautiful!

In hindsight, a lapped zip would have been the better choice, but it was a Sunday, and I was dying to get her finished for the party the following weekend. The invisible zipper gets a little stuck at the waist seam but otherwise isn't too much of a problem.

The rest of the dress came together beautifully, with much gleeful exclamation from me! Such a joyful sew - I love sewing something that you could never in your wildest dreams afford to buy ready made!

I hemmed the skirt with some pale pink cotton bias binding from my Grandma's notion stash. I hand stitched it in place to get a flawless finish.

I cut the main skirt so the finished edge of the fabric formed the hem, that way I could make the most of the beautiful embroidery and there was no need to finish it myself!

My dress form sits in the only space we could realistically have a Christmas tree. Therefore this year, she was the Christmas tree!

Far more beautiful than a christmas tree in my eyes! 

Anyway, here she is on...

I wore her to the Fold Line Party earlier on in the month (you can watch Gabby's video of the event here); to town on christmas eve and all day on Christmas day with my family!

Totally casual with a jumper right?!

I never want to look away- so shiny!

I'm yet to wear her to Morrisons - but I assure you, it will happen! I'll be spinning in the fruit aisle like...

Many thanks to Mini_adventure, Akathimberlina, Lady Sewalot and RedwSews for encouraging me to buy the fabric, and of course to Max and Julia for the lining fabrics!

I hope you all had a wonderful christmas and wishing you all a very happy new year!

Lots of love,

Vic xx

Cuttting Liberty Lawn gives me goose pimples.

I've been lucky enough to get my mitts on some beautiful Liberty Tana lawn for a client in Bath. This stuff is like heroin to a sewist. Maybe that is going a little too far, but just cutting into this fabric gives me goose pimples (I'm sure you guys get this... right?). As I type, I can hear the whimpering of my African Wax stash. 'Pipe down boys I'm most definitely not done with you yet!' Although... just imagine African Wax Print cotton lawn, Blimey. There'd be no coming back from that.

Anyway, the lovely lady in question had purchased the fabrics from Alice Caroline, but neither had the time nor the confidence to sew them up herself. Enter little old me,  I merrily obliged!

Cue the shameless self-promotion: for bespoke orders or commissions you can contact me at www.sewvee.com.

Moving on... I'll dive straight into the fabrics.

Those of you with a keen eye may notice that I am no stranger to the AMAZING fabric on the bottom right. I used Queue for the Zoo in a different colour way for a pair of Carolyn Pajamas not so long ago. These remain (and probably will for all eternity) my favourite pair a jammies. Just look at them...

Who doesn't need a pair of PJs covered in paper aeroplane throwing elephants
and 'detective' chameleons?!!!

This is such a beautiful pattern. I honestly haven't seen a bad pair sewn up. The construction and design are so well thought out, and you get such a lovely finish. If you haven't got this pattern in your stash yet  - YOU NEED IT (even if you are not a fan of nightwear). These beautiful versions should help persuade you: Bianca's and Faye's - but seriously there are SO many more.

I am now desperately fighting the urge to sew up another pair immediately. MUST COMPLETE BLOG POST.

The green leaf print tana lawn (bottom left) was destined to become a dressing gown. My client had sewn herself the dressing gown of her dreams many years ago for the birth of her first child. It has held up amazingly well after 25 years of daily wear. That my friends illustrates the beauty and importance of French seams! This standard of finish gives garments such longevity and is rarely seen in high street garments (Read: Buy or make HANDMADE garments!).

I went ahead and made a pattern from her faithful old friend. The construction of the dressing gown was very simple, so I was able to replicate it from some quick measurements. It all came together pretty quickly, and I invested time in making this dressing gown as special as the first. I used French seams throughout (of course!), pattern matched the pocket, and hand finished the hems and the collar. I found this gorgeous ribbon from my local haberdashery for the waist ties and hanger (Sew 'n'  Sew in the Guildhall Market if you live in Bath).

Pocket...? What Pocket?

Here she is in the 'wild'.

Next up was a fairly similar print in yellow.  My client had purchased McCall's M7096, and we opted for version D (with slightly more modest slits!). Firstly, I altered the fit to sit just above the hip rather than the waist and after a couple of adjustments to the toile we were happy.

I use curtain backing as toile material. Don't let anybody throw old curtains! 

I decided to underline the skirt with a yellow crepe to give the garment some body. I hand basted each skirt piece to the underling fabric then cut the lining. You can watch me doing this here and here if you are interested.

For the last two pieces, we decided to draft a pattern to get a beautiful fit on her petite frame. I was thrilled that I'd get to make a dress out of the Queue for the Zoo fabric. To be honest, I can't quite believe I resisted the temptation the first time around. We opted for a fairly simple darted bodice to show off the print with a box pleat skirt. 

After two fittings and adjustments to the toile, we were happy with the fit, and I braced myself for making that first cut...

I sincerely enjoyed sewing this dress. You can tell as I matched my nails. Always a good sign.

The dress is fully lined in cotton lawn and a matching viscose for the skirt.

We loved the shape of the skirt so much that we went straight ahead and cut the same design in the grey daisy print. 

Such a beautiful way to finish a zip! 

I used French seams and the fold and stitch method to finish the side seams. I lined the skirt in a 100% cotton (from Fashion Fabrics on Green Street, again if you are local) and made bias binding out of the scraps to finish the hem. 

That is all from me. I'm off to cut into some Liberty lawn scraps. I CANNOT STOP MYSELF.